Emily Wright finds out how to enjoy a trip to Sweden’s capital city
Clean, fresh and simple, Stockholm is the epitome of understated cool. Laid back but efficient, stylish but androgynous; the city has a Baltic, utilitarian charm that is straightforward almost to the point of indifference. But far from being unpleasant, the local penchant to err on the side of aloof only adds to the refreshing, relaxed vibe. And with Nordic cuisine becoming ever more popular, the time is ripe to go and sample some of the best in the world – reindeer carpaccio and all. Throw in a proper Swedish massage, some truffled game sausage and a trip to the Abba museum and you have yourself one hell of a city break. Here’s how to eat well, rest up and party hard Scandi-style.
Where to stay
It’s the lounge that clinches it for Stockholm’s Nobis design hotel (www.nobis.se/en). That and a near-perfect central location on one of the city’s most show-stopping squares. But really it’s all about the lounge. The combination of contemporary, minimalistic furniture dwarfed by a spectacular 28m-high ceiling in a vast white courtyard-style space is a real show-stopper. Particularly in contrast to the historic façade of this 19th-century building. And don’t miss the adjoining Gold Bar, the yin to the lounge’s yang, with low lighting and dark, sultry interiors. The Scandinavian design theme runs through each of the hotel’s 201 rooms characterised by a simple colour palettes and even simpler pieces of one-off furniture. Until you get to the grander suites, that is. Then it is all dramatic, architectural four-poster beds, ornate wood panelling and statement full-wall mirrors.
Eat like a Nordic native
Pickled herring for breakfast might not be your thing, but a trip to Sweden without sampling the local Nordic cuisine would be a criminal waste. Hit Niklas (niklas.se) for a modern take on traditional dishes, including Swedish pulled pork, reindeer carpaccio, blackened Arctic char with cloudberries and seared Norwegian cod. If you can get a table at Nosh and Chow (noshandchow.se.en), don’t miss the local caviar with pickled red onion and the venison cutlet with truffled game sausage. And for the ultimate snaps and smorgasbord experience, the spread at the Grand Hotel (grandhotel.se/en) must be seen to be believed.
Scrub up Scandi-style
Speaking of the Grand Hotel, the spa here should not be missed. With a sunken UV-filtered and sand-purified pool surrounded by flames, it feels more like walking into a Bond villain’s lair. Add in the freezing plunge pools and a traditional, wince-worthy Swedish massage for some souped-up, Norse serenity. Or, if you would rather take it easier, why not sign up to the Nordic spa experience? You will be presented with everything you need, including a scrubbing brush, a washbag of miniature toiletries, a glass of vintage champagne and a chocolate truffle.
Fix up, look sharp
Nightlife in Stockholm is a serious business. Relaxed, yes. But when the Swedes go out, they go big and party hard. East (east.se), Riche (riche.se) and Judit & Bertil (juditbertil.se) are all popular spots. But if you want to fit in (and the doormen here are known to be tough) then there is a definite look to keep in mind. Go out in the winter and you will be hard pushed to find anyone wearing bright clothes as the locals embrace an unofficial uniform of black, grey and shades thereof. In the summer beiges and whites are added in to the mix. But neutral tones, and the androgynous look for the girls, tend to dominate in the Stockholm style stakes.
Island hopping
Made up of five Baltic islands, Stockholm’s districts are easy to identify – not least because you have to cross bridges to get from one to the other. The Old Town is well worth a look, and a wander, for its cobbled streets and traditional coffee shops boasting an array of sweet treats including the iconic cardamom bun. Then there is the island of Djurgarden, home to many of the city’s museums and cultural spots. If your instincts tell you to avoid the Abba Museum (abbathemuseum.com/en) like the plague, ignore them. It is worth it – and no one ever has to know. If you do go and feel troubled by how much you enjoyed it, a stop off to see the incredible wreck of the Vasa ship on the way back (vasamuseet.se/en) will restore your cultural balance.
